Everything you need to know about raising Pogonomyrmex (Harvester) Ants

Table of Contents

General Care Information

DIFFICULTY LEVEL: BEGINNER

  • Temperature Range: 85-95F (90F preferred) using heat cable or heat mat paired with a thermostat. Like with most ants, having a heat gradient is beneficial. Heating is required for long term colony health and growth.
  • Food: Highly granivorous (seed-eating) but still need insect protein for proper development, especially when the colony is small. Nectar (sugar water) can be provided on occasion.
  • Humidity: Nests that are made properly will have a gradient to allow the ants to choose a humidity range that suits their needs.
  • Climbing Ability: Poor Climbers. They have a hard time climbing smooth plastic, but a fluon barrier is still required.
  • Nest Type: No special nest type is required, but nests that are horizontal are preferred.
  • Bite/Sting: Species can both bite and sting. The sting is painful, so be careful not to provoke them. Like most ants, they will usually only sting if actively threatened.
  • Hardiness Level: High. Harvester ants are known to be extremely resilient, even when faced with adverse conditions.
  • Queen Lifespan: 15-20+ years

 

Origins and Species Facts

Pogonomyrmex, commonly known as harvester ants, are native to various regions across North and South America, particularly in arid and semi-arid environments like deserts and grasslands. These ants are renowned for their seed-harvesting behavior, which involves collecting seeds and storing them in underground granaries. This behavior is essential for their survival in harsh environments where food can be scarce.

There are over 60 species within the Pogonomyrmex genus, with varying degrees of aggressiveness and adaptability. One of the most well-known species is Pogonomyrmex occidentalis, the red harvester ant, which is often used in ant farms and educational settings. Harvester ants are known for their potent sting, which they use to defend their colonies from predators. Despite their aggressive reputation, these ants play a crucial role in their ecosystems by dispersing seeds and aerating the soil.

Overall, Pogonomyrmex are excellent for beginner ant keepers due to their hardy nature and straightforward care requirements. They are poor climbers, which minimizes the likelihood of escapes and makes barrier maintenance a breeze. Once a colony is established, they are easy to feed, as they primarily consume seeds with occasional insect protein supplements to maintain colony health. They are also large ants with unique foraging habits which makes them fun to watch grow over time.

 

Advanced Care Information

Enclosures for various stages of growth:

Harvester ants (Pogonomyrmex) do not require a specific nest type, but horizontal nests are typically preferred. The best enclosures are those that offer a humidity gradient, allowing the ants to select the optimal humidity level for their needs. As the colony grows and matures, the recommended nest type may need to change to better accommodate their developmental stages.

  • Founding Stage: For the founding stage, the ideal nest for a harvester ant queen (Pogonomyrmex) is a standard test tube setup. This setup involves placing the new queen inside a test tube (18mm is a good size) that contains water at one end, separated by a PVA sponge (recommended) or cotton ball. This provides a water source and maintains the necessary humidity for brood development. The tight space in the test tube is perfect for a solitary queen, as too much room can cause stress. It’s also important to keep the tube covered or in a dark environment during this stage since the queen is more vulnerable to stress without workers.
    • Steps for Setting Up a Founding Nest (Test Tube Nest):
      • Step 1: Fill one-third to halfway of the test tube with bottled or filtered water.
      • Step 2: Place a PVA sponge or cotton ball into the tube and push it until it contacts the water. Ensure there are no air bubbles behind the sponge or cotton ball. This helps the sponge or cotton ball move with the water over time, preventing large air pockets on the water side that can increase evaporation and limit the space available for the ants as they grow.
      • Step 3: Introduce the queen into the test tube setup and close off the opening with an Ant Bite (preferred) or a cotton ball. Ant Bites make it easier to feed the growing colony and prevent workers from getting stuck in cotton fibers, which can also lead to a quicker buildup of waste.
  • Nanitics Stage: Nanitics are the first generation of workers produced by the harvester ant queen (Pogonomyrmex). These workers are usually much smaller than normal workers, allowing the queen to conserve resources during the founding process. At this stage, the colony can remain in the test tube setup, but feeding and maintaining cleanliness can become challenging as the colony grows. To address this, it's recommended to move the colony to a "Tub and Tube" setup, such as an Ant Lab, once these issues arise. These setups make it easier to regulate temperature, provide food, and maintain the colony as it expands. The humidity gradient is maintained by the test tubes, while food can be placed directly in the tub, allowing the workers to forage and bring it back to the test tube.
    • Steps for Setting Up a Tub and Tube Nest:
      • Step 1: Spread a thin layer of sand (about a quarter of an inch) across the bottom of the tub and smooth it out.
      • Step 2: Apply a fluon barrier to the top inch of the tub enclosure to prevent escapes. Allow it to dry completely.
      • Step 3: Place the test tube containing the young colony inside the tub, ensuring there's enough space in front of the tube's opening for workers to freely move in and out once the Ant Bite tray or cotton ball is removed.
      • Step 4: Remove the cotton ball or Ant Bite tray from the test tube to give the ants access to the tub.

A Tub and Tube setup can support a growing colony indefinitely, as long as you add additional test tubes and connect more tubs to provide enough foraging space. If a test tube runs out of water or can no longer accommodate the size of the colony, create a new test tube setup and place it inside the tub. As the colony continues to grow, you may want to consider alternative housing options. A general rule of thumb is to keep the colony in a Tub and Tube setup until it has around 30-50 workers.

  • Small Colony (10-100 Workers): For a small harvester ant colony (10-100 workers), a few good options include either an expanded Ant Lab setup (which is modular and allows for additional test tubes) or a small horizontal nest made by Tarheel Ants, such as the "Fallen Fortress" or the "Mini Labyrinth." As a general guideline, the colony should occupy about a quarter to half of the space in the new nest. This ensures room for growth while preventing unnecessary stress or improper use of the nest (e.g., turning chambers into trash piles). A later section will explain how to safely move a colony from one nest to another.
  • Medium Colony (100-500 Workers): At this stage of development, the harvester ant colony (Pogonomyrmex) will be actively growing and require more space. A great option for housing them is a full-sized "Labyrinth" by Tarheel Ants. Alternatively, an expanded Ant Lab setup or a Tub and Tube setup can still work effectively as well, providing flexibility for the colony’s growing needs.
  • Large Colony (500-1000 Workers): At this stage, your harvester ant colony (Pogonomyrmex) will be healthy and robust, actively seeking out food sources and looking to expand as quickly as possible. The recommended nest for this size colony is the "XL Labyrinth" by Tarheel Ants, which provides ample space for growth and foraging.
  • Mature Colony (1000+ Workers): At this stage, the harvester ant colony (Pogonomyrmex) will be large enough that no single nest currently available can adequately support their size. The best option at this point is to connect existing nests together using tubing, allowing the colony to move freely between them and expand as needed. Additionally, you may consider seeking custom nesting options from Tarheel Ants to better accommodate the growing colony.

 

Barrier Application and Maintenance:

While Pogonomyrmex ants are considered poor climbers, their nests still require a barrier to keep them contained. Fluon is a specialized barrier used by entomologists and ant keepers worldwide for this purpose. It is easy to apply and can last for several months, depending on environmental conditions. However, it’s important to note that excessive humidity in the outworld can hinder the effectiveness of the Fluon barrier. To ensure optimal performance, make sure there is proper ventilation to prevent high humidity levels.

  • How to Apply the Fluon Barrier:
    • Step 1: Coat the inner rim of the outworld with Fluon, ensuring a width of at least one inch. Aim for a continuous line without any breaks or patches.
    • Step 2: Allow the Fluon to dry completely.

That’s it! Once the barrier is applied and fully dried, your colony is ready to move into its new home. Over time, the effectiveness of this barrier may diminish as the ants attempt to cross it. To maintain its effectiveness, you will need to periodically check and refresh the barrier as needed.

  • Steps for Maintaining the Barrier:
    • Step 1: Plug the nest entrance and ensure that as few ants as possible are in the outworld. If the species in question is a poor climber, you shouldn’t have any issues moving on to Step 2. However, if they are good climbers, try to remove as many workers as possible from the outworld using tweezers and place them in a container lined with Fluon to prevent escapes. It’s also helpful to place the nest inside a larger container that is lined with Fluon, so if any workers do escape, they remain contained.
    • Step 2: Wipe down the old barrier with a warm, damp rag, sponge, or paper towel. Microfiber towels are ideal, as they help prevent scratches on plastic enclosures. Be thorough in this step, as any residue from the old barrier can hinder the effectiveness of the new application.
    • Step 3: Reapply the Fluon barrier in the same manner as before, then return the ants you removed back into the outworld after it dries.

For most species of Pogonomyrmex ants, the barrier can last up to 6 months or more. However, it’s essential to check it regularly to ensure that the ants cannot crawl over it. Once they can cross the barrier, cleaning and feeding the colony can become difficult, as workers will sit on top of the enclosure trying to escape.

 

How to Move a Colony:

  • Method #1: Light/Environment Method
    • Step 1: Connect the old and new nests using vinyl tubing. Most nest types have holes that accommodate 3/8-inch O.D. tubing.
    • Step 2: Place a bright light over the old nest and cover the new nest with a piece of dark fabric or paper.
    • Step 3: Be patient! This method can take several days before the colony decides to move completely from their old nest to the new one.
    • Step 4: Once the majority of the workers and brood have transferred to the new nest, disconnect the old one and seal the hole that connected them. If there are any stragglers left in the old nest, use tweezers to move them into the outworld of the new nest.
      • Tip #1: To encourage the colony to move, remove all heat sources from the old nest and add them to the new one.
      • Tip #2: Let the old nest dry out while ensuring the new nest remains humid.

The goal of this method is to make the old nest seem unfavorable while making the new one appear inviting and comfortable. Over time, the colony will be more inclined to move as the conditions in the old nest become less appealing.

  • Method #2: Dump/Manual Method (this method works better for test tube colonies than for full-sized nests)
    • Step 1: Take the existing colony and gently dump them into the outworld of the new nest by tapping the tube against the enclosure or your finger.
      • Tip #1: Place both the old and new nests inside a large container lined with Fluon. This will help contain any workers that might escape during the transfer.
      • Tip #2: Ensure you remove all brood from the old nest and place it in the outworld alongside the workers. For smaller pieces of brood, such as eggs and larvae that may get stuck, you can use a moist toothpick or bamboo skewer to move them. The workers will carry the brood into the new nest on their own.
      • Tip #3: Useful tools for this process include a bamboo skewer for moving eggs and larvae, reverse grip tweezers for handling workers, and a paintbrush to gently nudge the workers.

This method should only be employed if the light method has proven ineffective. It is more challenging for beginner keepers, as it involves directly moving workers and managing potential escapes. Additionally, this method may cause stress to the colony and poses a significant risk of losing some brood.

 

Humidity:

If a nest is constructed properly, it will feature a humidity gradient, allowing the colony to choose the exact level of humidity they need for their activities. Both test tube setups and Tarheel Ant nests are designed to provide this gradient, making it unnecessary to maintain an exact humidity level. As long as the test tube or water tower does not completely run out of water, the colony will be fine.

  • Refilling the Tarheel Ant Nest Water Tower:
    • Step 1: Fill the blunt-tip syringe provided with the Tarheel nest with water.
    • Step 2: Insert the syringe into the narrow opening that leads to the water tower.
    • Step 3: Fill the water tower until it reaches about two-thirds of the way to the top. Stop before reaching the top to avoid flooding the nest.
      • Tip #1: If it is difficult to see the water line in the water tower, try shining a light through the bottom. This will illuminate the inside of the nest without creating glare on the glass, making it easier to see.
      • Tip #2: The water tower should be filled once or twice a week. Ensure it never dries out completely.

 

Drinking Water:

Your colony will need access to drinking water. In a test tube setup, the ants can easily drink directly from the sponge or cotton ball, simplifying water management. However, in a Tarheel Ant Nest, they cannot drink directly from the water tower unless it floods, which is not recommended.

Instead, consider using either a byFormica Nectar Feeder. Nectar feeders can hold both nectar (sugar water) and water. Simply fill the nectar feeder with water or nectar and place it in the outworld of your nest, allowing the ants to drink directly from it. Available in various sizes, nectar feeders are a great and straightforward option to ensure your colony has all the water they need.

 

Heating:

Heat is crucial for Pogonomyrmex species; without it, the colony can stagnate and eventually die out. The optimal temperature range for most Pogonomyrmex species is between 85-95 degrees Fahrenheit, with 90 degrees being ideal.

The best way to achieve this temperature is by using a heat cable paired with a thermostat. Without a thermostat, the temperature of the cable can exceed 110 degrees, which can be harmful to the ants. While heat mats can also be used, they are less effective for regulating temperature, making a heat cable the preferred choice.

Ideally, the heat source should be positioned to create a temperature gradient within the enclosure, with a cooler side farther from the cable and a hotter side closer to it. It’s important to avoid placing the heat cable near any water sources, such as the sponge area in a test tube or the water tower in a Tarheel nest, as this can lead to excessive condensation, which can be detrimental to the colony's health. Here are some tips for properly placing the heat source:

  • Tip #1: Always position the heat source to create a gradient for the ants. In a test tube setup, place the cable towards the open end of the tube, away from the water source. This will create a hotter side near the opening and a cooler side towards the water source, allowing the ants to move their brood closer to or further from the heat as needed.
  • Tip #2: In a Tub and Tube setup, such as an Ant Lab, position the cable towards the open end of the tube but place it underneath the enclosure to heat the tube indirectly. For a Tarheel nest, place the cable on top of the glass in a horizontal nest or tape it to the side in a vertical nest. Again, ensure that the cable is not near any water sources to prevent condensation.
  • Tip #3: When placing the thermostat probe, ensure it is in direct contact with the cable for the most accurate temperature reading. Consider taping the probe to the cable.
  • Tip #4: You can gauge the colony's heat preference by observing where the brood is stored. If the brood is positioned as far away from the cable as possible, consider moving the cable further away or lowering its temperature. Conversely, if the colony is moving the brood closer to the heat source, you might benefit from repositioning the cable closer or increasing its temperature slightly. Make any adjustments gradually and avoid exceeding the maximum recommended temperature for any species. Always maintain a gradient within the nest, allowing the ants to access the heat they need.
  • Tip #5: If condensation forms and does not dissipate within 24 hours, consider moving the heat source further from the water source or lowering the temperature until the condensation resolves.
  • Tip #6: A single heat cable can be used to heat multiple colonies, but ensure the thermostat probe is placed on the hottest part of the cable, as heat is not evenly distributed.
  • Tip #7: It’s recommended to use a temperature gun for accurate temperature measurements within the colony.
  • Tip #8: While incubators are excellent for heating colonies, they may not be realistic for the average hobbyist. Incubators are best suited for individuals planning to rear multiple colonies at once. They can be constructed at home using a foam container paired with a heat cable and thermostat or purchased online.

 

Feeding your Pogonomyrmex (Harvester) Ant Colony:

Pogonomyrmex, commonly known as Harvester ants, are adept at consuming seeds found in their native habitats. The colony actively forages for and stores significant amounts of seeds within their underground "granaries," which they rely on during times when other food sources are scarce. In captivity, providing seeds ensures that your colony has a reliable food supply. However, it's essential to remember that they also require insect protein for proper development. Without this protein, their growth may be stunted, leading to potential colony collapse, particularly during the early stages. Sugar Water (nectar) is not required for harvesters but they do benefit from it on occasion. You can make nectar (sugar water) at home by following a one to three ratio of sugar to water.

In summary, while seeds are crucial for the colony's diet, they must not be the sole food source. Insect protein is necessary for healthy growth and overall colony success. The feeding methods will vary throughout the colony's lifecycle, especially during the founding stage.

  • Founding Stage: Pogonomyrmex species exhibit two primary methods of founding: claustral and semi-claustral.
    • Claustral Founding: In this method, the queen relies entirely on her fat and protein reserves to develop her first generation of workers, known as "nanitics." She does not leave the founding chamber during this time. Once she has produced workers, they will start foraging for food and bringing it back to the queen and brood.
      • Example Species: Pogonomyrmex rugosus, P. badius, and P. barbatus.
    • Semi-Claustral Founding: Queens that exhibit semi-claustral founding actively forage for resources while developing their nanitics. Once the workers are born, the queen remains in the nest. It's crucial to provide the queen with a small number of seeds and insect protein directly in the test tube setup. Be cautious not to overfeed, as excess food can lead to mold growth, which can be fatal for the queen. Offer food no more than once a week, ensuring no mold forms, and promptly remove any excess.
      • Example Species: Pogonomyrmex californicus and P. occidentalis.
    • Nanitics Stage: Once the colony produces its first generation of workers (nanitics), they will begin foraging for food to sustain the queen and developing brood. It's advisable to feed them directly in the test tube while the colony is small to minimize stress.
      • Tip #1: Continue to feed the colony directly in the test tube for as long as feasible.
      • Tip #2: When it becomes inconvenient to feed in the test tube due to workers attempting to escape, it's time to transition them to a new nest or an Ant Lab tub and tube setup.
      • Tip #3: Avoid keeping the colony in the test tube longer than necessary; move them to a new enclosure as soon as feeding becomes difficult.
    • Small to Mature Colony: Once the colony is well-established in a full-sized nest, feeding becomes significantly easier. You can simply place seeds and prey items into the outworld, and the colony will transport the food to the nest on their own.
      • Tip #1: Regularly remove uneaten insects, discarded exoskeletons, and any moldy food as soon as possible to maintain a healthy environment for the colony.

 

Feeding Schedule and Amount for Your Pogonomyrmex (Harvester) Ant Colony:

Feeding your Pogonomyrmex colony requires careful consideration of their size and development stage. The goal is to ensure they always have access to food without overwhelming them with excess that could lead to mold. Here are some general guidelines to help you establish an effective feeding schedule:

  • Tip #1: After the founding stage, feed the colony at least once a week. A schedule of twice a week is preferable and can promote faster growth.
  • Tip #2: Adjust the amount of food based on the colony's current size and the amount of brood present. Start by offering more food than you think is necessary and observe how much they consume. If food is consistently left over, reduce the amount for the next feeding. Conversely, if they finish all their food, increase the amount offered.
  • Tip #3: Harvester ants require both seeds and insect protein for optimal development. Relying solely on seeds can stunt growth, particularly during the early phases.
  • Tip #4: Provide a substantial quantity of seeds for the colony to create their own food caches. Aim to always have a small pile available for them to gather and store. If they consume or store all the seeds, replenish the supply.
  • Tip #5: The growth rate of your colony is closely related to the amount of food provided, especially insect protein. You can choose between two feeding strategies:
    • Power Feeding: Increase feeding frequency to 3 to 4 times a week, offering slightly more insect protein than the colony can consume at once. This approach signals an abundance of resources, which can accelerate growth. Be vigilant about removing any waste to prevent mold.
    • Slow and Steady Feeding: Provide smaller amounts of insect protein at regular intervals (once or twice a week). This method will lead to slower brood production and keep the colony size manageable while ensuring they always have access to seeds.
  • Tip #6: Instead of buying insects every time you need to feed your colony, purchase enough for a month and freeze them. Store them in a freezer bag with the air removed. This way, you can easily take out a cricket or roach, thaw it, cut it up, and feed your colony as needed.
  • Tip #7: Avoid feeding large live prey items, as they can cause stress and potentially lead to worker deaths. Instead, freeze the prey items beforehand and cut them into smaller pieces for your colony to consume safely.

 

Types of Seeds and Insects that Pogonomyrmex (Harvester) Ants Prefer:

Providing a diverse selection of feeder insects and seeds is essential for the long-term health and development of your Pogonomyrmex colony. Large prey items should be cut into smaller pieces to facilitate easier access for the ants, allowing them to transport the food into their nest for consumption. Below are some reliable options for both seeds and insects.

  • Types of Seeds: Smaller seeds are preferable.
    • Kentucky Blue Grass (uncoated and untreated)
    • Chia
    • Dandelion
    • Amaranth
    • Millet
    • Poppy
    • Quinoa
    • Tall Fescue Grass Seeds (uncoated and untreated)
  • Types of Feeder Insects:
    • Fruit Flies
    • Crickets
    • Roaches (nymphs preferred)
    • Mealworms or Superworms

 

Stages of Development for a Pogonomyrmex (Harvester) Ant Colony

 

Founding Stage:

The founding stage is where your queen begins her journey toward building a successful colony. At this stage, she is vulnerable because she doesn’t yet have workers to care for her, so it’s our job to ensure her environment is optimal and stress-free. Once the first workers, known as nanitics, emerge, her workload becomes lighter, and the process gets much easier.

Pogonomyrmex queens typically follow one of two founding strategies: claustral or semi-claustral.

  • Claustral Founding: In claustral founding, the queen stays underground throughout the entire process, relying solely on the fat and protein reserves stored in her body to produce her first generation of nanitics. During this time, she does not need any additional food.

For queens that practice claustral founding, we do not provide food. Instead, we focus on keeping her in a small, stable environment that minimizes stress, such as a test tube setup with adequate humidity and heating from a heating cable. The less disturbance, the better.

  • Semi-Claustral Founding: In semi-claustral founding, the queen actively forages for food during the founding process. She leaves the safety of her chamber to gather resources, which she then uses to feed herself and her brood, helping them develop into the first generation of workers.

For semi-claustral queens, we provide small amounts of food throughout the founding process. This usually includes seeds and insects, given about once a week. Like the claustral queens, semi-claustral queens benefit from a test tube setup with proper heating.

Time Frame and Colony Size:

The entire founding process typically takes up to two months, during which the queen produces a small first generation of workers—usually fewer than ten nanitics. The exact number depends on the species and environmental conditions. During this time, minimizing stress is critical to ensuring successful brood development.

Common Stressors and How to Avoid Them:

  • Movement and Vibrations: Constantly moving the queen or keeping her in a high-traffic area is a common mistake among beginners. While it’s tempting to check on her frequently, this can actually stress the queen, leading her to eat her brood or halt the founding process altogether. For claustral queens, there’s no need to check on them during the founding phase. For semi-claustral queens, limit your checks to once a week to remove moldy food or add new resources. The less you disturb her, the better.
  • Light Exposure: While most ants tolerate moderate levels of indirect indoor light, it’s beneficial to minimize light exposure during the founding stage. Keeping the queen’s test tube covered simulates the dark, secluded conditions of a natural underground chamber and helps reduce stress.

Key Takeaways for the Founding Stage:

The founding stage is when your queen is at her most vulnerable. Providing a stress-free, stable environment is crucial to her success. Resist the temptation to frequently check on her—once a week is sufficient, and even less for claustral queens. The more time she has to work undisturbed, the faster she will produce her first generation of workers, which marks a turning point where the colony becomes more resilient and able to handle daily interactions like feeding and routine check-ins.

Be patient and give her the best chance to succeed by minimizing stress during this critical stage!

 

Nanitics Stage:

Once the queen’s first brood develops, the colony enters the nanitic stage. Nanitics are the first, smaller-than-average workers, and their primary job is to help the queen establish a stable colony. This stage is crucial for colony survival, as the first workers play a key role in caring for future generations of brood.

  • Nanitic Behavior: These small workers take on many tasks despite their size. They will start foraging, cleaning, and feeding the queen and developing brood.
  • Feeding: Continue providing a diet of small seeds and insect protein (fruit flies, tiny roaches, etc.). Sugar water is also a good energy source. Start feeding them inside the test tube but don’t be afraid to move them if it becomes difficult to due to them trying to escape.
  • Nest: A "tub and tube" setup works well during this phase. The test tube remains the nest, but the ants can forage in a safe, enclosed area.

 

Small Colony Stage (10-100 Workers):

As the colony moves past the nanitic stage, you'll see a noticeable increase in workers, though the colony remains relatively small. This is a critical growth stage where the queen continues laying eggs and the workers support the expansion of the colony.

  • Behavior: The ants will become more active, foraging more frequently and storing seeds in their nest. You may also notice more organized waste piles as the colony starts to develop specific chambers for trash, brood, and food storage.
  • Feeding: The colony’s appetite increases, so you'll need to provide more food. Offer a steady supply of seeds, as well as protein sources (such as small roaches or cricket legs) to support the growing brood. Sugar water continues to be beneficial for worker energy.
  • Nest Considerations: At this point, you can start thinking about upgrading their nest as the colony will soon outgrow the test tube. Ensure their enclosure is secure and has enough space for foraging.

 

Medium Colony Stage (100-500 Workers):

At this point, the colony has reached a medium size, with hundreds of workers actively foraging and maintaining the nest. This stage is where the colony starts to show significant growth and development, requiring more space and resources.

  • Behavior: The colony’s organization becomes more complex. Workers will establish specific chambers for brood, food, and waste, and their foraging activity will increase as they seek out more resources to support the growing population.
  • Feeding: The colony's food needs will increase significantly. Continue offering seeds as their staple, but also increase the amount of protein sources (insects) to ensure healthy brood development. Keep offering sugar water regularly.
  • Nest Setup: By now, the colony should be moved into a larger nest to avoid overcrowding. Tarheel Ants has some great options to choose from. The nest should have a humidity gradient, with some dry chambers for seeds and moist areas for brood development.

 

Large Colony Stage (500-1,000 Workers):

A large colony of Pogonomyrmex ants is an impressive sight, with hundreds of workers bustling about. At this stage, the colony is well-established and fully functioning, with all workers contributing to the overall success of the colony.

  • Behavior: The colony's social structure becomes highly organized, and you'll see a clear division of labor. Workers will forage over larger areas, manage seed stores, tend to brood, and dispose of waste efficiently.
  • Feeding: Food demands will be much higher now. Increase the amount of seeds and protein provided, and ensure fresh sugar water is always available. Larger prey, such as small crickets or mealworms, can be offered but should be cut into smaller pieces.
  • Nest and Expansion: A large colony will require an even bigger nest, with plenty of chambers to accommodate the brood, food stores, and trash. Ensure there is enough foraging space outside the nest for the workers to explore.

 

Mature Colony Stage (1,000+ Workers):

Once the colony surpasses 1,000 workers, it has reached maturity. At this point, the queen’s egg-laying will be consistent, and the colony will function like a well-oiled machine, handling large-scale foraging and complex social behaviors. There is even the possibility of the colony producing alates, which are the male and female progeny responsible for starting new colonies.

  • Behavior: A mature colony is incredibly active, with foragers bringing in large amounts of seeds and protein while workers inside the nest care for the queen, brood, and storage. The colony will also have more intricate waste management and brood-rearing processes.
  • Feeding: At this point, the colony will need significant food supplies to sustain itself. Regularly provide large quantities of seeds, protein, and sugar water. Be attentive to the colony's consumption and adjust feeding schedules to prevent over- or underfeeding.
  • Nest Setup: The nest should have multiple chambers dedicated to brood care, seed storage, and waste. Expansion may be necessary to accommodate further growth, and proper humidity and heat regulation are vital to maintaining a healthy colony.

 

Conclusion:

Watching your Pogonomyrmex colony grow from a single queen to a bustling colony of thousands of workers is an incredible journey. Each stage of development requires thoughtful care and attention to their changing needs, but the reward of observing their complex social behaviors and thriving colony dynamics is well worth the effort. With the right environment, food, and support, your harvester ants will flourish for many years to come.

 

FAQ/Troubleshooting

  • My Pogonomyrmex queen isn’t laying eggs. What should I do?
    • Queens can take some time to adjust after their nuptial flight and may delay laying eggs if stressed. Ensure the queen is kept in a dark, quiet environment, ideally in a test tube setup with a water reservoir to maintain humidity. Avoid exposing her to unnecessary vibrations or moving her too frequently. If she is semi-claustral (like Pogonomyrmex californicus), make sure you’re providing small amounts of food (such as seeds or insects). Patience is key; it may take several weeks before the queen starts laying eggs.
  • My queen laid eggs, but none have hatched into workers. Is something wrong?
    • Pogonomyrmex eggs can take a few weeks to hatch, depending on temperature and humidity. Make sure the test tube setup has enough moisture and that you are heating one end with a heat cable (set between 85-95°F) to encourage faster development. If the temperature is too cold, the eggs might take longer to develop or might not hatch at all. Cover the test tube and limit interaction to ensure the queen isn't eating her eggs due to stress.
  • Why are my nanitics (first workers) so small?
    • Nanitics are the first generation of workers, and it’s normal for them to be smaller than future workers. They’re produced with limited resources from the queen, as their primary role is to help establish the colony. As the colony grows and starts to gather more food, future workers will be larger and stronger.
  • When should I move my colony out of the test tube and into a larger nest?
    • You’ll want to move the colony when the test tube starts to feel cramped, typically when the colony reaches around 30-50 workers. If the test tube begins to dry out or mold appears, this is also a sign it’s time to move. Use a method like the "light technique" to encourage the ants to move into a new nest. By placing the current test tube in a brighter area and the new nest in a dark spot, the ants will naturally relocate.
  • My ants aren’t foraging. Should I be worried?
    • There could be a few reasons for this:
      • Temperature: Pogonomyrmex ants are more active in warmer environments. Make sure their foraging area is warm enough, ideally between 75-85°F.
      • Food Availability: If the ants already have enough stored food (seeds), they may not feel the need to forage.
      • Colony Size: Small colonies, especially in the nanitic stage, may not forage much. Once the colony grows, foraging will increase.
      • If conditions seem fine and the ants are still inactive, consider adjusting their feeding schedule or offering different food types.
  • The colony’s foraging area smells bad. What’s causing this?
    • A foul smell is often due to rotting food or waste buildup. Harvester ants are relatively clean, but any uneaten insect protein (like dead fruit flies) can quickly spoil. Be sure to remove any uneaten food after 24-48 hours and regularly clean out the foraging area. Seeds generally don’t spoil but check to ensure none have become moldy.
  • The test tube is getting moldy. What should I do?
    • Mold can be harmful to your colony. If mold appears in the test tube, it’s a sign that it’s too humid or that there’s decaying organic matter (like leftover food). Carefully move the colony to a new test tube or nest, using a method like the light technique. Going forward, be sure not to overfeed and maintain proper moisture levels in the nest.
  • What should I feed my Pogonomyrmex colony?
    • Harvester ants primarily eat seeds, so small, untreated seeds like dandelion, chia, and Kentucky Bluegrass are excellent choices. They also need insect protein to support brood development, so offer small insects like fruit flies or pieces of mealworms. Sugar water is a good energy source for the workers and should be provided regularly. Be sure to remove uneaten protein to prevent mold and spoilage.
  • How do I keep my Pogonomyrmex ants from escaping?
    • Pogonomyrmex ants are strong and determined foragers, so it's essential to have a secure enclosure. Use a barrier like fluon along the edges of the foraging area. Regularly reapply the barrier, as it can wear off over time or become less effective if it gets dirty. For added security, make sure the enclosure lid is tight-fitting.
  • How often should I feed my colony?
    • For small colonies (under 50 workers), you can feed once or twice a week. As the colony grows, increase the feeding frequency to match their food consumption. Insects and sugar water should be offered regularly (but not left in the enclosure too long), while seeds can be given in larger quantities, as they store well inside the nest.
  • Do Pogonomyrmex ants need heat?
    • Yes, Pogonomyrmex ants generally thrive in warm environments. Using a heat cable or heat mat paired with a thermostat and set to around 85-95°F can help promote faster brood development and more activity. Ensure there’s a temperature gradient, so the ants can move to cooler or warmer areas as they need. For large colonies, it's also important to monitor the temperature of the foraging area.
  • My colony is storing seeds in the brood chamber. Is this okay?
    • While Pogonomyrmex ants naturally store seeds, they ideally shouldn't mix them with the brood. This behavior often occurs in cramped nests, so consider expanding the nest space or providing a designated area for seed storage. Proper nest design with separate chambers can help the colony organize their space better.
  • Can Pogonomyrmex ants hibernate (diapause)?
    • Pogonomyrmex ants typically experience a period of dormancy in the wild during colder months. In captivity, it’s not strictly necessary to simulate hibernation with most species, but many ant keepers choose to cool the colony down (to around 55-65°F) for 2-3 months to mimic their natural cycle. Examples of species that do require diapause are some localities of Pogonomyrmex occidentalis, and P. montanus. This can lead to healthier colonies in the long term. During hibernation (diapause), reduce food and check humidity but keep disturbances to a minimum.
  • My colony isn’t growing as fast as I expected. What can I do?
    • Several factors can affect the growth rate of your colony:
      • Temperature: Ensure the colony is kept at an optimal temperature of 85-95°F.
      • Food: Make sure the colony is getting enough food, particularly protein, which is essential for brood development.
      • Space: If the nest is too small, the colony may not have enough room to expand. Consider upgrading to a larger nest if the colony is outgrowing its current setup.
      • Humidity: Proper moisture levels are important, especially for brood development. Check that the test tube or nest has an appropriate humidity gradient.
    • How do I know when it’s time to upgrade to a larger nest?
      • It’s time to upgrade when the colony occupies about 75-80% of its current nest, or if the workers are visibly overcrowded. You may also notice that brood chambers are too full. Moving them to a larger nest with room for expansion will reduce stress and encourage healthy growth.

Final Thoughts:

Taking care of a Pogonomyrmex colony is a rewarding experience, but it does come with its challenges. These FAQs should help you troubleshoot common issues and provide the best care for your colony at every stage of development. With the right environment, food, and patience, your colony will thrive for years to come!

 

Helpful Resources

 

Pogonomyrmex (Harvester) Ants Currently Available

Supplies for Harvester (Pogonomyrmex) Ants

 

Contact Information/Further Assistance

For additional support or questions, feel free to reach out on Instagram @eukarya.world, by email at ryan@eukarya.world, or by phone at 424-465-0644.

 

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